Japan in December: weather, winter lights and year-end closures

December in Japan starts with autumn leaves still hanging on in Tokyo and Kyoto and ends with the biggest holiday of the year. In between, cities light up with winter illuminations, the air is crisp and clear, and the ski resorts in Hokkaido open. It is also when Japanese families travel home for New Year, so the last few days of the month need careful planning.

December weather

These are the Japan Meteorological Agency’s official December averages for 1991–2020.

Tokyo, Kyoto and Osaka are cold rather than freezing, and December is one of the drier months there. Kyoto feels colder than the numbers suggest, especially in temples where you take your shoes off. Pack layers, a warm coat, a hat and gloves for the evening illuminations, and thick socks.

Winter illuminations

From November, cities across Japan put up LED displays. These are some of the biggest for 2026.

Weeknights are quieter than weekends, and the days before Christmas are the busiest. Many illuminations are a short walk from each other, so an evening on foot works well.

Watch: Tokyo 4K walk: Daimon to Roppongi Hills Christmas

Jon’s 47-minute walking video ends at the Roppongi Hills Christmas lights. It was filmed during the 2021 season, so this year’s displays will look different.

Christmas and New Year in Japan

Christmas is not a public holiday in Japan. Shops, trains and restaurants run as normal, and Christmas Eve is treated as an evening out for couples and friends. Expect busy restaurants on 24 December and book ahead if you want a particular place.

New Year is the big family holiday. Many people travel to their home towns in the last days of December and return in the first days of January, and many businesses, offices and some restaurants close for a few days. On New Year’s Eve and the first days of January, large shrines and temples are crowded with people making their first visit of the year (hatsumode). In big cities, convenience stores, many chain restaurants, department stores and the main sights stay open, but hours change.

Year-end closures to plan around

If you are using a sightseeing pass such as the Osaka Amazing Pass, avoid 28 December to 3 January, when several of its bigger attractions are closed.

Snow and skiing

Hokkaido gets real winter in December. Sapporo averages a high of 2.0°C with 113 cm of snowfall over the month. The Niseko United resorts are scheduled to open for the 2026–27 season on 28 November 2026, snow permitting. If you are heading north, pack proper winter boots with grip; city pavements get icy.

Mt Fuji is snow-capped and often clearer in winter, but the Fuji Subaru Line to the 5th Station may close or be limited by snow. See a Mt Fuji day trip from Tokyo.

Autumn leaves in early December

In Tokyo and Kyoto, the autumn colours often last into early December, especially in city parks and gardens. Peak timing varies from year to year, so check a local forecast close to your trip rather than relying on fixed dates. Early December can be a good time for Kyoto, with fewer people than the November peak; see Kyoto for first-timers.

What to book early

• Hotels for 24–25 December and 29 December – 3 January. City hotels fill and prices rise.
• Shinkansen seats around the New Year rush. Seats go on sale at 10:00 Japan time one month before travel. See how to book the shinkansen.
• Pokémon Cafe: December bookings open on 1 November 2026 at 18:00 Japan time. See how to book Pokémon Cafe.
• Theme parks and teamLab: school holidays start in late December. See USJ Express Pass and teamLab tickets.
• Christmas Eve dinner if you want a particular restaurant.

Our full timeline is in what to book before you go to Japan.

A December cost note

Example How the calendar affects one typical cost: a business hotel room in Tokyo.

This is a pattern, not a quote. Compare prices for your own dates when you book.

Where to go in December

For lake and mountain views of Fuji, see a Mt Fuji day trip and the Hakone Freepass.

What to pack

• Layers. Trains, shops and restaurants are heated, so a warm coat over light layers works better than one thick jumper.
• Gloves, hat and scarf for evenings outside at the illuminations.
• Comfortable, warm shoes that come off easily, for temples and restaurants with tatami floors.
• Winter boots with grip if you are going to Hokkaido or the mountains.
• Lip balm and hand cream. The air on the Pacific side of Japan is dry in winter.

Convenience stores sell disposable hand warmers (kairo) in winter, which are handy for long evenings outdoors. See eating well from a convenience store.

Getting around over New Year

Trains run over the New Year holiday, but the days just before and after it are among the busiest of the year for long-distance travel, as people head to their home towns and back. Reserve shinkansen seats as soon as they go on sale, a month ahead at 10:00 Japan time. Within cities, some lines run on holiday timetables and some services change on New Year’s Eve, which varies from year to year, so check the operator’s notices if you plan a late night. Taxis and airport buses run, but expect queues at stations and airports on the peak days.

Common mistakes

• Planning a big sightseeing day on 1 January. Many places are closed or very crowded.
• Underpacking for evenings. Illuminations mean standing outside after dark.
• Leaving New Year travel to the last minute. Trains and hotels fill.
• Assuming the 5th Station of Fuji is open. Check road conditions.

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